Above: Le Kano in Martinique (CJ Photo)

By Alexander Britell

TROIS ILETS — It’s nearly every meal.

No matter where you go in the French Caribbean, you won’t be far from a plate of accras de morue, the deep-fried codfish fritters that are a staple of the diet of Martinique and Guadeloupe.

And in the structured schedule of French West Indian dining, they’re usually second — right after an awakening Ti’ Punch.

Above: Kano’s accras in their popular sampler plate

So it’s not a stretch to say I’ve had quite a few plates of accras in my travels.

But so far, I’ve never had better than at a small eatery in the Trois-Ilets section of Martinique.

It’s called Le Kano, and it’s a sleek, trendy lounge on a strip of sand on Anse Mitan.

Kano’s accras have a solid, spherical structure, with just the right amount of crisp in the crust and the perfect hint of spiciness.

But instead of being on the dry end of the fritter spectrum as are most accras, they’re delectably juicy — these, I found, were accras with attitude.

And the best I’ve ever had.

— CJ