By Chef Nigel Spence
CJ Contributor
AS THE United States remains poised on what could well result in World War 3, it gives me cause for reflection.
Until now, the possibility of experiencing a world war in my time has been so far removed from my mind.
Apart from history books and the news in general, the only knowledge I have of what it was really like living through a world war came from my Mother.
At the time of World War II, Jamaica was still under British rule, hence our involvement. Mom would recount the many nights that homework had to be done by kerosene lamp, which had to be shaded so as not to cast a beam. Electrical lights were not allowed to be used after dark so the Island bases could remain hidden from enemy sight.
Food was very scarce, especially beef, as most of the farmers had gone off to the War. Mom and my Aunt had to line up as early as 2:00 a.m. on a Saturday morning at the only outlet in the area issuing beef, with the hope of landing a small piece to flavor their meal. You had to obtain a ticket to buy rice and were only allowed, if you were lucky enough, to buy 1lb per family, per week.
A surplus of bananas played a major role in keeping starvation at bay. People used bananas to concoct every conceivable form of diet known to man – banana fritters, banana bread, banana flour dumplings, baked bananas, banana porridge and the list goes on… Knowing me, I would have found some way to make banana rum!
Still, amidst the hardship and fear, the people remained undaunted by the lack of conveniences. They simply became more creative; more supportive of one another as they endured this common bond.
During lights out at night, neighbors – especially children – would gather in the moonlight and talk or play games like “Moonshine Darling”. For this game, someone would lie in the road, while the others outlined their body with pieces of discarded condensed milk cans. When the person got up and moved, a silhouette of their body form would be left, shining when the moonlight hit the cans.
I remember dying wid laugh, when Mom, matter-of-factly spoke about this neighbor who like several other motorists, due to the scarcity of gas, dutifully removed his car engine, strapped a horse to the hood and clip-clopped it away, without a backward glance. Imagine if that were to happen in New York on Fifth Avenue – a host of horse-driven Yellow Cabs?
Well, the way how me se’et, the only war me can defend right ya now is a likkle “Dewar(s)”. I’ve been on the front lines of that one every sip of the way and I don’t plan to call a truce just yet!
Anyway, the way prices are escalating these days, we may have shortages of meat in our own homes, long before any declaration of war. With this in mind, I thought it would be cool to throw in this recipe for practice. This is enjoyable with or without meat and can be tailored to suit any palate by adding or subtracting any of the ingredients involved. What I can’t guarantee is whether or not you will need to set up a ticket system to manage the long line of people who will be coming back for more … Enjoy!
War Time Stew Peas
This dish is a Jamaican favorite that is considered to be very time consuming and is usually only made on the weekends or during the holidays, and of course, during war time. However, with the new star wars way of fighting these days, who has the time to make it the traditional way, so by cutting a few corners this dish is very approachable during the week. As with most stews, you can eat it all week as it gets better after cooling and re-warming.
4 pounds Beef Stew Meat
(meat should be cut into 2 inch pieces)
1 smoked ham hock (or smoked turkey)
4 Tablespoons coconut oil
Salt & Pepper to taste
2 15oz Cans Red Kidney Beans, drained
1 can unsweetened coconut milk
1 tablespoon whole pimento (allspice)
1 Tablespoon fresh ginger, finely chopped
8 sprigs thyme
8 cloves garlic (smashed with back of knife, but left whole)
1 bunch scallions (cleaned, cut in half)
1 whole scotch bonnet pepper cut almost in half, but left as one piece
½ cup beef or vegetable stock(or more as needed)
Season beef with salt and pepper. Heat large braising pan over medium heat, add oil and brown meat. Deglaze the pan with coconut milk and add kidney beans, allspice, thyme, garlic, scallions and scotch bonnet pepper. Try to keep the scotch bonnet pepper on top of the stew so it can be easily removed if the stew gets too spicy. You may also tie it in cheesecloth to make it easier to find and remove. Add enough beef stock to bring the liquid just to the top of the meat. Bring to a boil, turn the heat down and simmer uncovered for approximately 1 hour.
Half way through cooking time, check for seasonings, and level of heat, and remove scotch bonnet pepper if necessary. If most of the liquid is gone, just add a little more stock to prevent stew from burning before becoming tender. Adjust the heat to the lowest setting, and simmer slowly till meat is tender, about 20 minutes.
Serve over steaming white rice, with fried ripe plantains.
Nigel Spence, a Culinary Institute of America alumnus, was born in Kingston, Jamaica. Nigel freelanced at the Television Food Network for three years where he worked with culinary luminaries such as Mario Batali, Bobby Flay and Emeril Lagasse. Chef Spence has appeared twice on Throwdown with Bobby Flay where he emerged the victor in cookoffs against the Food Network star and was featured on CBS when he appeared on Tony’s Table as well as ABC’s Neighborhood Eats, NBC’s The Today Show, Sirius’ Everyday Living with Martha Stewart and TVFN’s Chopped. The acclaimed and New York Times-reviewed Ripe Kitchen and Bar is Mr Spence’s first entrepreneurial endeavour.
